Although they are often compared to potatoes, tropical tubers "have much more flavor, more starchy sweetness than potatoes, and they also have a bit of bitterness. The nuances of earthy, nutty flavors and the mouth-feel are also different," notes Presilla, a Cuba native who has traveled from Mexico to Argentina collecting recipes from contemporary chefs and historical archives. One of her signature preparations is a pancake made with grated tropical roots, sofrito (a basic seasoning mixture comprising tomato, green pepper and onion cooked in oil and flavored with annatto and cilantro), bits of truffle and bacon, which she pairs with "a lush Catena Alta Chardonnay."
She continues, "My favorite is the true yam, probably because my father grew them in his backyard in Cuba. He and Aunt Juanita would compete with each other to see who could grow the largest. Grown on compost, some were as huge as a man's leg. We would peel and boil them and serve them with a simple mojo sauce," she recalls.
Truffled Malanga Skillet Cakes with Mushroom Fricassee
From Chef Maricel Presilla of Cucharamama
* 1 pound malanga (about 2 large), peeled
* 8 scallions, white and 2" green, finely chopped
* 1 tablespoon crème fraîche or sour cream
* 2 tablespoons white truffle olive oil
* 1/2 teaspoon salt
* 1 pound plus 4 ounces mixed exotic mushrooms, trimmed, cleaned and sliced
* 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus 2 tablespoons (divided)
* 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
* 1 large yellow onion, halved lengthwise and thinly slivered
* 2-3 serrano peppers, halved lengthwise, seeded, deveined and thinly slivered (substitute jalapeños)
* 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
* 1/2 cup white wine
* 1/2 cup chicken broth
* 6 sprigs fresh rosemary (or thyme)
Trim dark spots from malanga and rinse under running cold water. (If not using immediately, place in a bowl and cover with acidulated water.) Place in a medium pot with about 2 to 3 quarts cold water and salt to taste. Bring to a boil over medium heat; cook until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and pass through a food mill to make a smooth purée.
Place purée in a bowl. Add the scallions, crème fraîche, truffle oil and salt to taste; mix well. Divide into 12 equal portions and roll into balls between the palms of your hands. Flatten into
3-inch-wide patties and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let cool at room temperature or inside the refrigerator.
Heat oil in a 12" sauté pan over medium heat. Add bacon and sauté until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and sauté until golden, about 40 seconds. Add onion and sauté until soft and lightly golden, about 4 minutes. Add peppers and season with salt and cumin; stir for 1 minute. Add mushrooms and sauté until golden, about 5 minutes.
Stir in white wine and chicken broth. Lower heat and simmer for 5 minutes or until pan juices reduce.
Heat a large nonstick skillet, coated with a film of oil, over medium heat until sizzling. Working in 2 batches, place patties in pan and brown for 1 minute on each side. Lift out with a spatula. Divide mushrooms into 6 portions in the center of plates. Top with 2 cakes and garnish with rosemary.
Serves 6
